Specks - Crystals - Clumps - Particles

Q: Specks or Crystals, Clumps, Particles in acrylic powder

A: Any Specks or Crystals, Clumps, Particles in acrylic powder is usually from leaving the powder container open during filing.  To remove from this from your powder, use a very fine sifter, usually you can find this type of sifter at a kitchen store.

 

Crystallization

Q: Crystallization (crystallizing)

A: Some acrylic products crystallize in cold weather, Tammy Taylor acrylic "does not" crystallize; that is one of the reasons it is so popular with Nail Tech's who live in cold areas.

Rule of thumb for acrylic nail liquid: The optimum temperature is 72 F degrees; when liquid is colder, the acrylic nails set up slower; when hotter, the acrylic nails set up quicker.

Note: Even though the room temperature may be 68 F to 72 F, the Client's finger temperature may be quite warm or quite cold, also causing a difference is set-up time.

Lifting causes: plus Fill-Lines & "Shadows"
& Popping off (another term for Lifting)

Main Causes for "Lifting":
1) Making acrylic nails Too long
2) Not etching properly with 100-grit Purple Terminator file & Not etching with the T.T. Pterygium Stone, which etches away the pterygium skin around the cuticle area.

3) Applying acrylic product after 2nd coat of primer has dried.

4) Product placed too close to cuticle skin (acrylic must stay away from cuticle skin at least 1/32" of an inch)  (1/32" of an inch is about the thickness of 2-3 business cards).

5) Using a Pre-Prime can cause lifting - Do Not use pre-primes - And Do not use a spray pre-prime to spray the fingernails.

6) Product too thick at cuticle - You must not be able to feel a bump at the cuticle area with your own fingernail.  When the acrylic product is too thick near the cuticle skin; the acrylic will not be flexible and will not bend as the natural fingernail bends.  When the acrylic will not bend or flex, the acrylic will have a tendency to lift.  (Lifting at the cuticle area can cause pseudomonas, aka "the greenies".)  Pseudomonas article is in Tammy's "Nail FAQ's by Topic", under "pseudomonas" or "greenies". 
Link to "Greenies" article "Fungus - Mold - Bacteria. 
Link to "Nail FAQ's by Topic".

7) Using a cosmetic brush can cause lifting.  Never use a cosmetic brush to dust off the fingernail after Etching with the Purple Terminator 100-grit file, or the Pterygium Stone.

8) The Tammy Taylor 'Pterygium Stone' is very important to help remove the pterygium skin from the surface of the natural fingernail, along the nail-groove & around the cuticle skin area.

9) When "acrylic" nails are old, the acrylic can start lifting. 
     Solution: Soak off old acrylic and apply a new set of Pink & White acrylic nails.

10) Mixing product brands from different manufacturers can cause lifting.

11) Do not nip unless it stands up and waves at you.  Over-nipping can cause lifting.

12) An often overlooked cause of Lifting is contaminated primer.  Although rare, this can happen, especially if the Technician does not wipe their primer brush after priming the fingernail before placing the primer brush back into the primer bottle.  Please see "Primer Application & Cleaning of the Primer Brush".

Acrylic working together with Primer...
Basically: In order to have acrylic & primer work together properly; both products must be
wet.
1. When the primer dries, the primer will not mix with the acrylic to cause the acrylic to
get thin enough to flow into the “Hills & Valleys” that were made when the natural fingernail was Etched using the T.T. Purple Terminator 100-grit file.

     Note 1: When acrylic is too thick or the primer has dried, the acrylic will sit on top of the "Hills & Valleys", and the acrylic will "NOT flow" down into the Hills & Valleys.

     Note 2: The slightest air gap can allow for moisture to creep in, and can cause lifting.  Moisture can cause "the greenies" pseudomonas - see "Mold".

     Note 3: This slight air gap can also cause the acrylic nails to be more susceptible to
lifting, because the acrylic will not be adhering to all of the nail-plate, like into the "Hills & Valleys".

     Solution: Primer must be wet and acrylic must be wet, for both to mix properly, to cause
up to 100% adhesion to the nail-plate; including, all the way to the bottom of the "hills & valleys". 

2. Caution: When the primer is too wet, the primer will flow underneath the cuticle skin and
cause burning.  Being too wet should cause the client to remove their hands because of
the burning, and you would not be able to proceed with the application of the acrylic nails.  Whereas in either case, the primer being too wet should not cause lifting, but primer being too wet can cause burning.

3. Consistency is such a major factor in the application of acrylic nails, that Tammy has
made a video dedicated to “Consistency” – “Faster Nails with Product Consistency” video
and it is now on DVD.
     a. Also see “Consistency” in Tammy’s “Nail FAQ’s by Topic”.

4. PS: Do you have one of Tammy’s ‘Product Consistency’ “Practice Sheets”?

5. If you do not have a Practice Sheet, please go to Tammy’s “Nail FAQ’s by Topic”,
then click on "P" to go to "Practice Sheet".  On the Practice Sheet page, you will find
downloadable PDF files in English, Spanish & French.

PEELING away from the acrylic nail

Peeling - the natural nail is peeling away from the sculptured acrylic nail, under the free-edge. This usually happens after about 3-6 months.  Soaking off and applying a new set of acrylic nails should be the solution.  Tammy suggests replacing acrylic nails every 3-4 months.

Without a Drill: Only do step #2 and step #3.
With a Drill: Do all 3 steps (step #1, step #2 and step #3)
     Step #1. Very lightly, drill the natural fingernail underneath the free-edge just to smooth the natural fingernail to the acrylic.
     Step #2. Apply a thin coating of glue around the edge natural fingernail, where the natural fingernail has peeled away.
     Step #3. Coat the underside of the free-edge with a very thin coating of product. This will seal the natural fingernail to the acrylic nail. 

Products needed to make a nail repair: Tip & Repair Glue 1/2 oz.

Also see: Flip-Up, Curve-Down and Curve-Away fingernails in Problem Nails "Two"

Acrylic: You should only need to soak off acrylic nails, and to apply a new set every 3 to 4 months.

Prizma: The Tammy Taylor "Prizma" acrylic product is the same as regular acrylic: Soak off every 3 to 4 months.  Even though the Prizma coloring is dark on most of the Prizma colours, it should still be apparent if the acrylic nail is lifting around the cuticle skin area.

Soaking off: see “Nail FAQ’s by Topic” – click on “P” for “Prescriptions”, then click on “Soaking Off an Acrylic Nail”. This is only one nail, but it is the same for all acrylic nails. If you choose to soak off all of the acrylic nails at once, you would need a little larger container. 

Liquid differences: Soaking off acrylic nails is typical for ALL of the Tammy Taylor acrylic liquids (monomer). Also in “Nail FAQ’s by Topic” – click on “D” to go to “Differences in Liquids” for a full description of the Liquids: Original, Summer, A+, Xtra-Adhesion and odor-less. You will also find a combination chart explaining how you can mix the liquids & powders, and the results you can expect from the mixing.

Note: The Tammy Taylor “Prizma” colours can be applied using all of her liquids.

Bubbles in the "Pink" nail-body area -
Why? & Solution or Prevention!  Also "Air Pocket"...
Also "Center" lifting or lifting in the center of the Pink nail-body

Cause 1: Cuticle ball of acrylic product was too dry, or the primer had dried.  When the nail-body area of the fingernail is too dry, the acrylic product will not flow properly, into the "Hills & Valleys" you made when you Etched the fingernail.  This can also cause lifting.

Cause 2: Cuticle area gets little air bubbles in the acrylic product.  This can be caused by patting; most commonly these little bubbles are caused by not stroking properly. 
     Note: Although you may at times need to poke gently at the pink acrylic product on the nail-body of the nail-bed; Tammy always stresses "stroking" of the "Pink", and if the consistency is correct, you should not have to poke at the pink. 
     Note 2: When you have to poke or move the "pink" acrylic product with your brush, the "pink" acrylic product was applied too dry; consistency is the key.

Cause 3: When stroking with a brush that has product clogged in the hairs, the product in the rush hairs can create a type of suction.  This suction action result is similar to patting. 

Air Pocket: When a Nail Technician is really fast at applying acrylic nails, they MUST be very aware of the temperature of their liquid, and of the air flow in the Salon.  Doing acrylic nails quickly, and not paying attention to consistency can cause air pockets underneath the Pink acrylic product on the nail-body.

Keeping Brush for Nail Liquid "Clean":
Brush Note 1 (Cause 3): The reason a brush gets clogged with product is because the brush hairs are NOT thoroughly dipped into the liquid in the dappen dish.  The brush hairs MUST be dipped so the brush hairs are all the way into the liquid, totally submerging the brush hairs, at least all the way up to the silver colored ferrule. 

Brush Note 2: When a container for the liquid is used that does not allow the brush to be totally submerged, the brush hairs cannot get thoroughly wet.  This means the brush will clog with product build-up quicker. 
     Whoops! This means that pump-up type liquid containers do not allow the brush hairs to get thoroughly wet.

Brush Note 3: If the liquid gets thick (contaminated with too many powder particles) the liquid will not flow into the brush hairs properly.  Thus, the brush hairs will become sticky & gummy.  In this sticky & gummy condition, the brush hairs will not stroke the acrylic product properly. 
     What happens? The brush hairs will appear to attract the acrylic product like a magnet, and instead of the brush hairs stroking smoothly, the brush hairs will tug & pull the acrylic product away from the fingernail.  The Technician can also get frustrated. 
     Solution: Replace the liquid & clean the brush. 
     Reality: This means that any Technician having more than 1 or 2 clients, must have at least 2-3 brushes.  Most established Technicians will acquire 5-6 favorite brushes, and even have several more.  A Technician will quickly realize they MUST have an extra brush or two, just in case a brush needs to be cleaned NOW.

Brush Note 4: When the brush hairs are not thoroughly wet, and when you are patting the free-edge, the product will keep sticking to the brush.  This makes it really hard to make a proper free-edge, and the sticky brush will cause the Technician to take too much time.  Also the Smiley-Face can set up before you get a chance to make the curve of the smiley-face.  Again, too much time is wasted when the brush hairs are not thoroughly wet.

Caution Note 1: If the brush hairs are not thoroughly wet when applying the acrylic product, the brush hairs will be more susceptible to attracting acrylic product into the brush hairs.  This is called "clogged brush".  The only remedy is to soak the brush in brush cleaner for at least 10 minutes, or until all acrylic product is removed. 

Caution Note 2: This is one of the reasons most Technicians doing acrylic nails will have at least 3-4 brushes; that have already been cleaned, and are ready to use immediately. 

Cost $$$ Factor: Down-time will cost the Technician $money in wasted time.  Plus, if time is wasted on one client, the clients that follow will also suffer because the Technician will be running late.  Running late is not a good way to show professionalism.  Thus, running late can cause clients not to want to pay very much for their services.  Note: Running late can mean NO Tip!  Everyone suffers.

Solution: Keep your brush clean.  Keep your brush wet.  Keep your liquid fresh.  And this keeps appointments on time.  Also, being on time will help keep energy levels on an even keel.  Thus you will look forward to coming to work.  Thus again; the days will be more relaxing when your tools all work properly and the product flows smoothly.

Pockets in the Cuticle area of acrylic nail

Cause 1: Cuticle ball of acrylic product was too dry, or the primer had dried.  When this area of the fingernail is too dry, the acrylic product will not flow properly, into the "Hills & Valleys" you made when you Etched the fingernail.  This can also cause lifting.

Cause most common: The nail-body acrylic product balls were too dry. 

Solution 1: The brush hairs need to have more liquid in order to pick up a wet nail-body acrylic ball.

Solution 2: See article above: "Bubbles in the Cuticle area - Why? & Solution!"

Allergic reactions - Reactions - Primer & Burning
Reactions to acrylic nails - and Primer & Burning
Primer & Burning - and Reactions to acrylic nails
(red, inflamed, itchy & burning sensation of the fingers and or cuticles)

Note: If a Client has an "allergic" type reaction, discontinue services.

Primer:
The biggest "heat" problems: Too much primer "and" primer applied too close to cuticle skin.

Ball(s) too big:
Next problem area: Adding too big of an acrylic ball onto the nail-body. When acrylic is hardening, the acrylic becomes "hot"; and when the nail-body ball is too "big" it can become too hot.
Note: Tammy Taylor teaches in her Classes to always apply the nail-body using 3-small balls as the most effective way to building an acrylic nail. This 3-ball method on the nail-body also helps with consistency, and the contour of the nail, and... the Technician will do a lot less filing.

1. One area of concern is: do you use the Pterygium Stone after Etching with the Purple Terminator 100-grit file?
     a. If you leave Pterygium skin, it can soak up primer like a sponge.
     b. This can cause sensations like: itching, burning and cracking.  (Sometimes referred to as an "allergic reaction")
     c. Itching, burning and cracking is usually due to too much primer.

2. Blot the primer brush on a towelette before applying the primer to the natural fingernail.
     a. When you do not blot – too much primer can be released onto the natural fingernail, and can be soaked up like a sponge, by the pterygium skin, and sucking the primer underneath the cuticle skin.
     b. The primer can also run over the tip of the free-edge and soak into the hyponychium skin, on the underside of the natural fingernail, and cause burning. 

3. Has the client started any new medication?

4. Is the client exposing their hands to any chemicals, or new chemicals?

5. Are you performing a service before the application of the acrylic nails; like: a Manicure? Or a Pedicure?

6. What are you using to remove polish and/or top-coats?

7. What primer are you using?

8. IF the finger tips start to Burn... Neutralize the primer.
     a. In a bowl: mix 1 tablespoon of regular “baking soda” to 1 cup of tap water, and put clients fingers into this solution.
     b. Put fingers into bowl for a few minutes, to neutralize the primer.
     c. Regular Baking soda (like Arm & Hammer) and water should neutralize the primer enough to stop the burning.

9. Sometimes the cuticles & or the fingers can get red, inflamed, itchy & burning, even after the client leaves the Salon.
     a. In this case the client can also mix the same solution of "Baking Soda & Water" and soak their fingers at home.

10. A lot of people will refer to this “red, inflamed, itchy & burning sensation” that is usually caused from “over-priming”, as being an allergic reaction.

11. Keep these notes handy.

12. Note on Drills – NEVER use the drill to Etch the natural fingernail:
     a. The drilling of the natural fingernail causes thinning of the fingernail and can allow the primer to penetrate the natural fingernail. (See #9 above for reaction.)
     b. NEVER allow a drill to be used to Etch your fingernails.
     c. ALL Etching should be done with a hand-file, like the “Purple Terminator 100-grit” file. (See #1 above.)

Primer Application & Cleaning of the Primer Brush

1. Application: When the primer brush is removed from the primer bottle, it must be wiped on a towelette before applying the primer brush to a clients natural fingernail. 
WHY? Because applying too much primer to the natural fingernail can cause the primer to flood the fingernail and creep underneath the cuticle skin and cause burning.  See Primer & Burning, under Allergic Reactions.

2. Cleaning: Since the primer brush comes into contact with the fingernail, after the fingernail has been etched and dusted, the primer brush attracts little tiny particles of keratin cells and skin still left on the nail-plate.  Though microscopic, these tiny particles can build up in the primer bottle, thus diluting the effectiveness of the primer, over a period of time.
What to do? Wipe the primer brush on a towelette BEFORE placing the primer brush back into the primer bottle. 
Always wipe primer brush before applying primer to fingernail, and wipe primer brush before putting primer brush back into the primer bottle.

To check your primer: With the primer bottle lid closed securely; turn bottle upside down, then right side up, and look through the bottle to see if there are any particles floating in the primer.  A few particles are not usually a problem, but when there are enough particles to look like snow, the primer should be replaced!

Temperature in the Salon - Hot or Cold  Optimal Temperature is around 70-72 degrees Fahrenheit (21-21 degrees Celsius)
Keeping the "liquid" temperature equalized is important: Use Tammy's “thick“ Deep-Well Ceramic Dappen Dish to contain the Tammy Taylor “liquid”, to keep the liquid from warming up to room temperature as it gets hotter in the Salon.    Note: Ceramic naturally stays cooler, and the "deep well" of this dish stays cooler than a "shallow" dish.	White dish is for Brush Cleaner & Black dish is for "original" and "odor-less" nail liquid.  Note: The Prizma "liquid" also uses a "white" ceramic dappen dish.
Keep the liquid bottle for filling the Dappen Dish in the lower part of your Work Station cabinet, to help keep the liquid cooler than the room temperature in the Salon.
Keeping the "liquid bottle" in a Styrofoam container, will also help keep the liquid cooler.
Also as it gets warmer in the Salon, you will find that leaving a little more liquid in your brush when picking up the powder, will make the product flow easier, and the product will not set up as quickly, while you are applying the product.
When working with acrylic, the acrylic must be wet enough to flow into the "Hills & Valleys" that were made when the natural fingernail was Etched (with the Purple Terminator 100-grit file).  Flowing into the bottom of the Hills & Valleys will make the acrylic adhere better; thus eliminating a lot of lifting problems.  Having the acrylic product wet enough also allows the Technician ample time to form the "Smiley-Face" across the nail; making beautiful Pink & White acrylic nails.
COLD: When the temperature is cold in the Salon, and your 'liquid" and bottle are cold; warm the liquid in the bottle by holding the bottle underneath warm running tap water.	Note: When the liquid is cold, and when you apply the product, the product will take a long time to set up & harden.
Neutralizing a primer reaction
Mix: 1 tablespoon of Baking Soda (regular baking soda for cooking) and 1 cup of water (tap water or bottled water) Submerge finger tips into baking soda & water mixture for 10 to 15 minutes.  The baking soda & water mixture should neutralize the primer, and stop any reaction