Editorial: How To Have "100%" Lift Free Nails
By Tammy Taylor
“I personally use my products everyday and I have put a lot of time and research into lift free nails because I am a fanatic about lifting. It is my #1 nail pet peeve, so I have formulated my products for Optimum Adhesion. Switching to Tammy TaylorProducts is a good move but only the first step in eliminating lifting problems.”
What Not To Do:
- You should not need to nip nails back when doing a fill and you should be able to just file the acrylic nail flush with the natural fingernail. But if lifting occurs, you will need to nip back the acrylic that has lifted because lifted areas get moisture underneath, and the client will get the “Greenies”.
- Do Not use any type of pre-primer antiseptics on the fingernail after etching, especially anything with alcohol in it, as these products can cause lifting. Use 2-3 coats of Tammy Taylor Primer instead.
- Do Not use a pump for the nail liquid, because it will not allow you to submerge your brush properly; and without the proper amount of liquid for good product consistency, you can cause lifting. Also, pumps can cause nail liquid contamination, which causes lifting and causes yellowing.
- Do Not etch the natural fingernail with a drill because a drill can cause the natural fingernail to become damaged and thin, which also causes lifting.
- Do Not use a cosmetic fluffy brush to dust off the fingernails after prepping as this can spread germs, mold and fungus as well as put dust and oil on the fingernail, which also causes lifting.
What To Do:
- Proper nail preparation and product application will help make your nails "100%" lift free!
- The Tammy Taylor 100-Grit Purple Terminator is the only file I recommend for etching and prepping the natural fingernail. Etch the way the fingernail grows; and you must etch hills & valleys into the natural fingernail to create a rough, porous surface as acrylic will not adhere to a smooth or shiny surface.
- Etching Properly Eliminates 75% of lifting.
Note: The Purple Terminator is available in disposable Peel ‘n Stick Strips, in the regular size, and the smaller “Etcher” size strips; so you can use a new file on every client.
- Etching the way the natural fingernail grows does not cause damage to the natural fingernail. Do not file cross ways to etch, because this can cause the natural fingernail to become thin and damaged. Use a coarse edge on your 100-Grit Purple Terminator every time you etch and never use an old, used file. Note: The Purple Terminator is available in disposable Peel ‘n Stick Strips, in the regular size, and the smaller “Etcher” size strips.
- Use the Tammy Taylor Pterygium Stone to remove the excess skin that has grown onto the fingernail. We call the Pterygium Stone extra insurance because it helps insure lift-free nails and it can be used wet or dry. To use it wet, keep it in your wet sanitizer and only use Tammy Taylor First Choice. Other wet sanitizer disinfectants contain chemicals that can cause lifting.
- The Tammy Taylor Primer does not need a pre-primer, nail fresh, pre-bond, nail prep or scrub for adhesion. All these extra products can actually cause lifting, and cost you a lot of money, time and aggravation. Tammy Taylor Primer is applied 2-3 times before acrylic application.
- The first coat of Tammy Taylor Primer needs to dry and it will dry out the oils on the fingernail to kill the germs.
- The second coat needs to be applied one fingernail at a time just before the wet acrylic is applied. The wet Tammy Taylor Primer and wet acrylic blend together causing a chemical reaction, which pulls the product into the hills & valleys on the fingernails. If the second coat of Tammy Taylor Primer dries before putting on the acrylic, apply a third coat of primer.
- Always use a primer holder when using primer. Use primer sparingly, as it can cause burning, redness and irritation. Always dab off the primer brush before priming so it doesn’t flood the cuticle, and wipe the primer brush off before putting it back in the primer bottle to eliminate contamination.
- Use a Tammy Taylor Deep Well Ceramic Black Dappen Dish for beautiful, consistency and to eliminate contamination. Use the black color dappen dish for Pink & White or the white color dappen dish for the Prizma colours. By using Tammy Taylor Deep Well Ceramic Dishes, you will be able to pick up enough liquid in your brush to make beautiful balls that look like pearls.
- The Tammy Taylor Deep Well Ceramic Dappen Dish is black so you can see when the liquid gets white and cloudy. This shows it is contaminated and you need to dump it out so you can put in new nail liquid. Contaminated liquid causes lifting.
- When the acrylic product is too dry, it will not adhere properly. The acrylic needs to flow easily, so it can flow into the hills & valleys for good adhesion.
- Always place acrylic ball 1/32nd of an inch away from the cuticle skin allowing it to flow for 3 seconds; and then stroke away from the cuticle. Never pat the product around the cuticle area as this can cause the product to get too close to the cuticle and possibly leave a piecrust edge. This causes lifting and can also cause air bubbles.
- There should always be a road around the cuticle area. The road is a space between the cuticle and the acrylic where you can feel the natural nail. When there is no road, the acrylic product is too close to the cuticle and this causes lifting.
- Use the Tammy Taylor 180-Grit Zebra to file the acrylic flush with the natural fingernail. This is the best file for the cuticle area and to finish the acrylic nail. This file has a special white coating on it, which makes it very smooth and easy to file. Place the Zebra File in the road and file the acrylic smooth. There should be no bump and the acrylic should look like it is growing right out of the natural fingernail.
- Always use a Tammy Taylor Plastic Manicure Brush to clean off the fingernail after etching and prepping. After etching, there are white particles on the nail-plate. These white particles are dead skin and dirty nail. If these particles are not removed, they will clog the hills & valleys we created by etching. The primer and product will not flow properly, which will stop adhesion and cause lifting.
- Clients who pick or bite their nails will cause their own lifting. This is not your fault, but you need to teach them how to maintain their nails in between fills.
DO NOT GET IN A HURRY!
YOU HAVE HEARD OF THE SAYING “THE HURRIER I GO, THE BEHINDER I GET”; WELL THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENS WITH NAILS.
Do not get in a hurry or skip a step, especially on PREPARATION, or it will cost you double work on your clients’ next appointment, and they well not be happy.
Keeping your nails Lift-Free is very important to keeping a full clientele. It will keep them coming back and referring their friends.
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